By Graham Armitage

In part one of this article we discussed the kites and methods used for deploying the bait. Now I will cover the terminal end of the kite rig. It is not as simple as just having a bait on a hook. Consider for a moment what would happen if your bait was floating out on the surface and kite hanging motionless in a gentle breeze. Then all of a sudden the wind picks up a little and the kite soars, dragging your bait 100 feet out of the water? It took a lot of time and effort to get your bait out there, so you don't want to reel it in and re-adjust the kite.

This is where a ballast comes in. A ballast will keep your bait near the surface when the wind drops and help keep it in the water when the wind strengthens. The simplest and most efficient ballast is a plastic soda bottle half filled with water. Out of the water, the water in the bottle adds weight to the rig, and in the water, the air in the bottle keeps the rig from sinking. The air also makes the ballast act as a large bobber that the fish will fight against. The size of bottle is usually determined by conditions, or by regulations such as in tournaments.

When I kite fished, it was mainly for large sharks off the coast of Africa. Sharks up to 1000Lbs were caught using kite tackle. There is no reason why you can't fish for other species, and I have caught other types of fish with the kite rig. When fishing for sharks and other toothy fish you will need wire leader just as you would fishing off a boat. Making the wire leader long enough to keep the biting part of the fish from your fishing line. The length of the leader form the hook to the ballast will determine how deep below the surface you are fishing.

On the line above the ballast, going up toward the kite, attach to or three sheets of black garbage bag plastic. Using clothes pegs, makes it easy to attach them. These are your strike indicators. When a big fish takes the bait it will pull the terminal tackle, ballast and strike indicators under water. If you are fishing several hundred yards out to sea, you will need these to know when you have a strike. A pair of binoculars (even cheap ones) will help you keep an eye on the indicators. Even with a big fish, it will be several seconds before you feel anything on the rod. But seeing the indicators go down, gives you time to prepare for the big pull that's coming. Why use two or three indicators? Well, sometimes a smaller fish will take the bait and not have the string to pull all the markers under water. Maybe only the lower one will drop into the water and this change in configuration will be enough to alert you.

Black plastic is the most visible color during the day. When night fishing (an this is a very productive time) you obviously can't use black plastic. For night time, simple tape a glow stick to the line above the ballast. It is very exhilarating to see your glow stick plunge out of site on a dark night. The placement of the indicator depends on how far off shore you are fishing, or the wave size. It must be high enough above the ballast to remain visible from shore. usually about 10 feet is sufficient.

The kite is usually several hundred feet up in the air and should stay there, unless the prey takes a really deep dive. If you leave you kite attached all the time, it will still stay flying while you fight the fish. If you are fishing with a double rig, then the strike should detach the fishing line from the kite line. There are several types of release clips available and are used for outriggers and down riggers. A double rig is often more convenient when fishing closer in shore. Whether fishing a single or double rig, your kite should stay up all the time - preferably all day or night. There should be no need to bring it back down to earth unless wind conditions change radically. A kite that ditches in the water is never a good thing. Pulling a kite through the water is a lot of hard work.

When fishing for really big fish, you will need a fighting harness and obviously a reel that can accommodate the harness and the big fish. Having a harness will save your arms during a long battle with a big shark. A basic marlin rig will work well for many big fish. An important safety note. With a harness you are attached to the fish. A big shark can easily drag you down the beach toward the water (been there, done that). Always have a knife on your belt to cut loose should something malfunction.

Speaking of safety, you need to be aware of others using the ocean where you are fishing. The black plastic indicators on your line near the surface will alert boaters who might otherwise ride right over your terminal tackle. Don't be surprised when watching through your binoculars, the puzzled looks a boater will exhibit when seeing a fishing line extending vertically up into the sky, as if attached to a sky hook. Often they can't see the kite way up in the sky.

I usually try and keep the kite as low as possible as planes, like those with advertising banners, often fly low enough up and down the beach, to pose a hazard. I have lost several kites to the props of low flying aircraft.

Kite fishing is not a simple science, and is definitely more of an art. By using the basic principles of wind power and a kite to deploy your bait, you can use your imagination to adapt the rest of the equation to match your unique conditions. There is so much more to kite fishing than can be described here, but hopefully this sheds some light on a method of shore fishing that is not very well known. Start simple and give kite fishing a try. You never know what lurks in those depths off shore.

By Lola Jones

You wouldn't believe it but summer has started in the UK and with that in mind those who are thinking of trying out kite surfing should read the following.

According to the British Kite Surfing Association (BKSA), the best way to get started is to take a 2-3 day kite surfing course at a BKSA approved school. The BKSA recommends that you be able to swim 200m in open water and a good level of physical fitness is required. The good news here is that you don't have to have super human powers of strength because it's all about technique.

Experience

Like all sports, there are risks involved but if you receive proper tuition to become aware of the hazards and talk to experienced kite surfers then the risks are minimized.

If you do take risks and go out in conditions that you can't handle (too much wind) then obviously you are increasing the risk level.

It's important to remain in full control of your kite at all times, and watch your lines, especially if there are other kite surfers out at the same location.

Learning to fly a two-line power kite before you take a course will help you learn significantly faster, though most people are standing by the end of the first day of a three day course.

Within three months you can be a competent kite surfer and within six months to a year you may well be pulling off jumps of 10 - 15 foot.

Equipment

You are looking at between £500 - 1000 for your start up costs, though it's nearer to the £500 mark if you buy some of your kit second hand.
You will need:

· An Inflatable kite. You need a kite between 9 - 14m depending on your body weight, but an instructor will be able to tell you which is most suited to you. Expect to pay between £200 - 400 for a used kite, with 5 line types costing the most. A top of the range current model can cost up to £850 but this expenditure is not required until you have convinced yourself that this sport is for you. Initially you will be able to use a kite provided by your instructor.

· A kiteboard and leash. Board-wise you are looking for one between 130 - 150cm in length. The twin tip wakeboard style is ideal as you can ride it in either direction.

For those with a windsurfing or surfing background directional boards are great for speed and light wind conditions, however, the fact that they can only be ridden one way may well hamper your learning curve. Expect to pay around £250 for a second hand board and between £300 - 500 for a new one.
A leash is also a pretty essential piece of kit enabling you to keep the board attached to you when you wipe out- you must use a helmet if you use a leash. Approx £40.

· Lines and control bar. Modern kites normally come complete with lines and bar so you don't have to worry much about the lines. The line length is dependent on the size of the kite and wind conditions, though most kite surfers use 25m - 30m lines to give the most versatile range for starting, pointing (going upwind) and for jumping. Whichever control device you use, make sure that it has a dependable safety release system, and a depower device. This system should be able to disable the kite completely even in the event that you become unconscious. Expect to pay between £100 - 250 for a control bar.

· A harness. This performs the basic function of attaching you to your kite. There are two types of harness - the seat harness and the waist harness.

As a beginner, the best harness for you is the seat harness as this is less likely to ride up when the kite is in the zenith position (directly above your head) where the kite will probably spend most of its time as you learn. Around £70-£90.

· A helmet. Pretty straight forward, useful for protecting your noggin while racing across the water at speed. Expect to pay between £30 - 50.

· A Wet suit. This is the UK not Hawaii, you will need one. Your best bet is a winter suit (3/5mm) if you plan to kite surf all year round, though the summer suits are cheaper, thinner and are guaranteed to give you hypothermia if you wear one in the winter.

A winter wet suit will cost you between £120 - 220, where as a summer suit will set you back between £80 - 180.

Finally I would like to reiterate that any BKSA accredited instructor will provide all the equipment you need and so the initial expenditure is limited to the cost of the lessons. If you do decide to continue with the sport you will then, after 3 to 5 lessons, have a much better idea of what to buy when you go shopping. My advice is that you should be prepared for this expenditure as 'once bitten you are forever smitten!'

By Tim Parish

The history of ancient Chinese kites is a very long one. Chinese kites have been made and flown all this time as a part of the national culture. According to historical records, this has spanned more than 2300 years. For the purpose of this article, 'ancient' means any kite constructed just like the original design, with the same materials and techniques.

Some of the traditional bamboo and silk hand-painted creations made today have hardly changed from those flown many hundreds of years ago. There is such a contrast between Chinese kites and those from the rest of the world!

Chinese kites are works of art, whether done by a master craftsman or a class of young children helped by their teacher. In both cases, the idea is to fly an artistic design on the end of a string. The traditional designs done by highly skilled craftsmen and artists have even been exhibited in museums, such is their artistic worth.

Traditional kite handicraft has flourished in three Chinese cities in particular. Tianjin, Beijing and Weifang are steeped in ancient Chinese kites history.

Types of Ancient Chinese Kites

It's interesting trying to classify these kites, since the Chinese themselves have come up with so many different ways to do this. Maybe that's not so surprising since it's a big country and they have had so long to do it. Perhaps the handiest broad classification for most purposes is the following list:

* Centipede (multiple flat sections stacked together plus a 'head')
* Rigid Winged (paper or silk tightly stretched over rigid spars)
* Soft Winged (flexible structures behind just one spar)
* Flat (just like the name says)

Spectacular Chinese dragon kites are an example of the centipede type. Other dragons are more like models of imaginary creatures, such as the modern 3D Dragon Kite. These are not necessarily made in China.

Kite classification can be much more detailed. According to one source I came across, there are no less than 300 varieties of kites in China! This system takes into account groups such as human figures, fish, insects, birds, animals, written characters and so on.

There is a range of standard sizes too, ranging from extra large right down to miniature. The biggest take a team of men to fly, the smallest are just the size of the palm of your hand.

Ancient Chinese Kites in Action

History aside, Chinese kites these days are flown for very similar reasons to everywhere else in the world. Making Chinese kites and flying them can be recreation for the whole family. But there are a couple of extra dimensions too...

Traditionally, kite flying was believed to be good for people's health, and this view is still held by some. A bit like some Westerners regarding laughter as being beneficial, who hasn't read something about that at one time or another.

For a long time, most ancient Chinese kites have been flying works of art. Real art, as proven by the fact they could be found in many art collections around China. A good example was when the Yanhuang art museum in Beijing ran a kite exhibition.

By Tim Parish

The modern single line delta kite is designed to be an eye-catching spectacle as it floats about on its flying line at a high angle. Most deltas are designed to fly well in light wind, so if you own one you should get plenty of opportunities to get out and fly. The ability of deltas to fly at very high line angles has helped to make them popular.

By the way, the fourth letter of the Greek alphabet looks like a triangle, and is called Delta. Hence the name of the kite!

Even cheap mass produced plastic or nylon deltas perform well enough to impress most onlookers! Kite shops sing the praises of delta kites, describing them as stable, easy to handle and wonderful fliers.

Despite the emphasis on light wind flying, the delta is actually a very versatile design that can be altered slightly to suit all wind ranges. For example, a high-wind delta is more sturdy and has its towing point more towards the nose of the kite.

Delta Kite Variations

Not all are the same, so how do they vary?

The first thing you might notice after walking into a kite shop, is that the smallest are about a meter (3 feet) across while the largest can be enormous in comparison. Large deltas which pull harder are useful for showing off long tails and windsocks or flying fancy inflatable objects from the flying line.

According to kite shops, 2 meter (6 feet) wing span deltas are the most popular. One of the biggest retail designs in 2008 is the Sweet 16 Delta, which has a span of 5 meters (16 feet)!

The shape of a delta kite floating high in the air sometimes causes people to describe it as a bat or bird kite. Or even a wing kite. This more likely if the delta has a curved trailing edge and extra battens in the sail. In fact the exact shape of a delta is open to much creativity.

Shop bought deltas tend to have fiberglass or graphite rods for spars and plastic or nylon fittings in which to insert the cross spar or spreader. Interestingly, the spars are not attached at the nose end. They float free in the sail material, which helps give the delta its unique and fluid flying characteristics.

Most deltas have a flexible keel attached to the underside of the vertical spar. This aids stability and acts like a vane, helping to keep the kite pointed into wind.

With the cross spar or spreader removed, a delta kite can be rolled up into a narrow bundle for carrying around.

Although most deltas you are likely to see have at least one tail, an expertly made one will fly quite happily with no tail at all!

Regarding sail decoration, strips of different colored material can be joined together before the outline is cut. On the other hand, the appliqué technique involves sticking light but colorful cut-out patterns onto the sail material. Also, printed sail material is used for mass-produced kites.

As mentioned earlier, deltas generally have keels. The keel doubles as the bridle, since the towing point is a hole at the tip of the keel.

Rip stop nylon is a popular choice for the sail material. Special spinnaker fabric is used for light wind them. These fabrics are light, strong and non-porous.

Delta Kites In Action

Here are 2 interesting ways of using deltas that you might not be aware of...

A light wind delta kite can actually be flown for extended time periods in thermal lift. Just like soaring birds or hang-gliders! The skillful single-line delta pilot can actually search around the sky for thermal lift, then let out line as the kite soars up in the warm rising air. This way, long flights can be achieved in almost no wind.

Unless you are a keen fishing person, you might not have heard of the delta fishing kite. Often, simple diamond or sled designs are used for fishing, but some of the most useful ones are deltas. That's because specially designed fishing deltas have extra large wind ranges and the best tacking ability of any other type of fishing kite.

Tacking is when a fisherman attaches a tail or drogue to one side of the kite to make it stay off to the left or right. This way, more than one fishing line can be dangled in the water at once.

Whether used for fun or fishing, it's hard to beat a delta kite!

By Tim Parish

What do the words 'Chinese Dragon Kite' mean to you? It seems that the most well-known variety is the centipede style of kite. This type consists of a large head and a long train of small disks that form the tail. Some of these are very big and very expensive, since a lot of labor goes into making them. Most are mid-sized, but still not cheap compared to children's kites.

The large centipede dragon kite is an amazing thing, whether it is hanging in the foyer of a large building as a piece of art or flying with its tail pointing at the clouds.

If you get up close, you can see great detail in the fine bamboo framework of the head in particular. Raw silk is used for covering, and this is precisely and painstakingly painted by hand. Like many things Chinese, bright red is used a lot but plenty of other colors are used as well.

The tail sections, which are really just a number of smaller flat kites are also constructed from thin bamboo strips covered with raw silk and then hand painted. Traditionally, each tail section has a thin bamboo rod running through it, with a feather attached to each end.

The craftsmanship in these kites is just mind-boggling. No wonder it can take a team of artists up to 2 months to create one, using traditional techniques and tools.

Probably the best known place of manufacture for these kites is Weifang, the home of traditional Chinese kite making. Dragon kites are exported from there to all around the world.

Prices

It all depends on the size of the kite! The smaller sizes, where the tail is only a few meters long can be bought for around US$50. The very largest, with tails that seem to stretch into the distance, can set you back around US$1000!

I've noticed that the available sizes can vary quite a lot from shop to shop, hence the price range will too. Usually, the price includes a good quality storage box, flying line and a winder.

Flying

What kind of wind does it take to fly these things? Surprisingly, just a soft breeze of 3 kph (2 mph) is enough for some of the best large dragon kites to stay off the ground! All those light little tail sections all pulling together generate a lot of lifting force. The head is just for looks.

However, you might need a decent breeze to get the smallest dragon centipede kites to fly. These kites are not as efficient as their larger cousins.

A flying dragon kite is an impressive sight, with the long tail snaking skywards, and tail section feathers fluttering in the breeze. Like a live creature, gently moving about on its leash.

The smallest ones are pretty easy to get into the air. Just attach the bridle and hold it up for the breeze to catch the tail and take it up. The larger kites, while still easy to launch, take a bit more organization with connecting things up, laying out the tail and so on.

History

In conclusion, a couple of notes on some aspects of the Chinese dragon kite that go back a long time...

Firstly, nearly all authentic dragon kites have the following features...

* a 'centipede' tail structure which represents a snake
* deer horns, which represent long life and good luck
* catfish whiskers, which represent wealth
* tigers' eyes, since the tiger is strong and rules over other animals
* a human beard, which symbolizes intelligence and talent

Secondly, many of the kites that are flown or displayed around the world today were produced by Imperial Dragon Kites of Shanghai, in China. This company is old by anyone's standards! Can you believe they have been manufacturing Chinese dragon kites for nearly 2 centuries!

By James Hunt

Kites are devices that are meant to be flown in the air at the end of a string. Building kites and flying kites is an informal pastime as well as a competitive sport in many parts of the world. In Korea, men, women and children fly kites during the first few days of the New Year. Kites’ flying is an important part of the boys’ festival held each May in Japan, and in China, one day each year is celebrated as Kites’ Day. On those days, thousands of kites shaped like fish, butterflies and dragons float over the cities and towns. There are also kite-flying competitions held yearly in the United States and Canada.

Types of Kites

There are many different types of kites. The simplest kind of kites is the two-stick single plane bow kite. It can be purchased ready-made or it can be assembled from do-it-yourself kits or made completely by hand. For simple kites the sticks can be of any strong lightwood with a straight grain. The covering material can be ordinary brown wrapping paper, or a lightweight clothe, such as silk or nylon. Plastic sheering of various kinds is also used. In addition, cloth is used for the tail and a string for the flight line. There are more advanced types of kites that can be made.

The box kite consists basically of two rectangular boxes, open on two parallel sides each and connected by a common framework. Lawrence Hargrave invented it in the 1890’s. Box kites are more difficult to build than stick kites, but they are excellent flyers and will maintain their position for long periods. Box kites also adjust well to changes in the wind, and they do not require a tail.

How to fly kites

Kites fly, like airplanes, on the aerodynamic principle of wind pressure against a heavier-than-air object. The motor and propeller of the airplane create a wind pressure as they move the plan through the air. When the pressure is great enough to overcome gravity, the plan is pushed up and allowed to remain aloft. The same effect of wind pressure is created by the kite flyer as he runs across an open field. As the kite moves against the wind, the string tips the face of the kite forward. The wind pushes up on this tipped face and lifts the kite, just as a wedge pushed under an object lifts it up.

By Robert G Murray

It's hard enough to shop for something as potentially confusing as a trainer kite is, but needing to wade through a slew of new and confusing terms just makes things worse. Likewise from my end, it's tough to write about and describe something without being able to use the proper word for it; so to clear everything up, here's the description of all the trainer kite terms that you might run into when looking for a kite of your own.

Leading Edge- The leading edge of a kite, as it's name might indicate, is the front part of the kite as it flies into the wind. Since trainer kites are designed to fly in one direction, there is only one leading edge, and that's the edge that's at the front!

Trailing Edge - Opposite to the leading edge, the trailing edge is the back of the kite, or the tail end of the kite.

Bridle - The bridles on all kites are the lines that attach from bottom of the kite to the kite's lines. While the lines of a kite can be detached, the bridles are actually sewn into the canopy and help hold it in the proper shape. On many trainer kites, the bridles look much like a parachute's lines because they are the exact same thing, just on a smaller scale.

Safety Leash - The safety leash is an attachment that connects to your wrist and a certain line on the kite. When you let go of the bar and activate the safety mechanism, the leash pulls on the line and kills all the power in the kite.

The Back Line(s) - The back lines on a kite can also be referred to as the third (or fourth) line(s), and they connect through the center of the kite bar to the trailing edge of the kite. The sole purpose of these lines is to act as the safety leash line, and to help re-launch the kite. On a kite with 3 or 4 lines, the safety leash attaches to the back line(s) and provides for a very safe and effective de-power.

The Front Lines - The front lines, also called the steering lines, are attached to the ends of the bar and connect to the kite's bridles. While third or fourth lines are optional, you will never find a kite that does not have steering lines since they are how you to steer the kite.

Although it might seem different at times, kites are very simply in design and don't have that many parts. Once you understand the terminology for one kite, you have 95% of all other kites figured out - even if they are a different style overall!

By Robert G Murray

When shopping for a trainer kite, some believe that an inflatable style kite is a better choice than a foil; after all, they are more like the kiteboarding kites that are used on water. Although buying an inflatable might at first seem like a smart move, there are key differences between the two styles that might change your mind. Here are the top three reasons why I recommend a foil trainer over an inflatable one:

* Foils are less expensive.

Foil trainer kites are less expensive than inflatable ones for a number of reasons. First, they are much simpler to make. Foils are composed of nylon squares that are sewn together - a simple feat when compared to the complicated air-bladder installation an inflatable requires.

Second, foils can come in two, three, or four line setups - ranging from cheapest to most expensive, respectively. Inflatable kites must come with four lines, meaning that you can't choose a less expensive, two line version.

Finally, a foil trainer does not require the use of a harness like an inflatable one does. In order to use an inflatable properly, including its safety system, a kiteboarding harness must be used. Buying one adds an extra $50-$100 on top of the price of the kite.

These three differences can drive the price of an inflatable trainer kite to more than double that of a foil.

* Foils are more durable.

Foil kites are very durable. Their construction is simple and easy to reinforce, making them very hardy kites. In addition, their open cell design allows air to escape when the kite is crashed, preventing a surge of pressure from damaging it.

Inflatable kites, on the other hand, have a delicate air bladder that must be pumped up to give the kite its shape. This bladder can burst if the kite is crashed severely. Considering that trainer kites tend to be crashed often and are used primarily on land, purchasing one with an air bladder can bring a lot of headaches - and added expenses.

* Foils are easier to learn on.

Launching and landing a foil kite is easy to do and can be done solo. In addition, three and four line foils can be re-launched backwards, eliminating the constant need for a helper.

At the trainer kite stage, safely launching and landing an inflatable requires two people. Also, every time the kite is crashed it must be manually re-launched - a time consuming and irritating process.

At this point some may argue that an inflatable kite gives beginners a more realistic start in kiteboarding, since they are identical to the kites they will use on the water. This is not necessarily true. A trainer kite's real purpose is to learn how to fly a kite properly - starting on dry land. A beginner's priority is to learn kite handling basics, and to master the introductory skills required to fly larger kites. Starting on a more fragile, difficult to fly, and potentially frustrating kite is not the best way to achieve this goal!

Starting with an uncomplicated and durable kite will save you money, and will help to develop your skills faster than otherwise. After all, a rookie jet-fighter pilot does not learn to fly a fighter plane on a smaller-but-just-as-complicated version of that plane. Instead he starts on a simple aircraft, one that might not remotely resemble an advanced fighter, but one that still teaches the fundamentals that he needs to know before upgrading to more complicated aircraft. Learning to kiteboard is no different, which is why I suggest that you start with a foil trainer kite.

By Tim Parish

Kite skiing is a new and exciting winter sport that's been popular for some years in Europe. It's also getting a lot more popular in the U.S. In fact, any country these days with a decent amount of snow has a few kite skiers skimming around somewhere!

The Americans thought of it first, with a few pioneers in the 80's experimenting on the frozen lakes of the U.S. East Coast and Midwest. Parafoil kites were used then, and they remain the ideal type of kite for this sport. However, Europe was where kite skiing really took hold and first became a recognized sport. Many of the people who tried it were surfers who already had the needed kite skills. These days there are well-established competition circuits. At the highest level of competition, riders from Europe and the US come together to compete.

What Exactly Is Kite Skiing?

You could call it a combination of sailing, skiing and kite flying. That makes it sound much more complicated than it really is. In fact, if you've got the basics of skiing down, learning to kite ski is relatively easy. Taking kite lessons is a good way to enter the sport safely.

It's nothing like alpine or downhill skiing. Funnily enough, ordinary downhill skis are the usual equipment though. The skier wears a kite harness to take much of the effort away. Handling the kite is a lot like using the mainsail in a sailing boat. In common with sailing boats, kite skiers can make progress upwind by tacking into the breeze.

However, snowkiting is not all sedate sailing along chewing up long distances. All sorts of tricks and stunts can be done while the snow kite is flown high, supporting the weight of the skier during a jump. It's not unknown for some skiers to find a snow-covered golf course and launch themselves off the bunkers!

What's a perfect day for skiing with kites? Try somewhere not far from the arctic circle, mid-year, where the sun shines for 16 hours each day, with an average temperature of -10°C (14°F) and consistent winds of around 30 kph (20 mph) or so. Perfect! If the breeze gets up a bit more, speeds of 100 kph (60 mph) are not unheard of.

It's probably worth mentioning here that not everybody kite skis on snow! There are such things as grass skis and sand skis. These are a lot less efficient than snow skis, so travelling upwind is out of the question until better technology comes along.

Amazing Places For Kite Skiing

Some kite skiers consider mountain ridge tops to be the ultimate playground. That's because of the open terrain and smooth consistent winds. Here's a roundup of some other awesome places that are being used by kite skiers.

There's a number of big lakes that are popular in the US. Two biggies are Lake Winnipesaukee in New Hampshire and Lake Minnetonka in Minnesota. There's some more near Madison, in Wisconsin. Lake Mendota to the north and Lake Monona to the south of the city. The long winters and heavy snowfalls of this area make it heaven for cross-country skiing, with or without a foil kite.

Canada, being further north and more sparsely populated, has many great locations too. For example, there is Frobisher Bay, Baffin Island. This area has a reputation for being one of the best spots for this sport in Canada. Here, it's possible to travel across sea ice for hours on your skis, taking in the coastline views and fjords of the Bay.

Joining Canada is the US state of Alaska, which is home to the incredible Bagley Icefield. An icy wilderness just perfect for kite-powered skiing. In fact, it is one of the biggest icefields south of the Arctic Circle. It's been used for a lot of training trips for learners.

What about Europe? Chamonix in northern France is famous for all sorts of Alpine sports. It has a huge flat area of glacial ice way up above 3500 meters (8500 feet), called the Col du Midi. At that altitude, there's always snow! Plus the usually windy weather, and you can see why it really suits skiing with kites.

There's another mountain plateau, this time in western Norway. In fact Hardangervidda is the largest high-altitude plateau in Europe. The weather is very cold, and often windy. The flat terrain and small hills are perfect for kite skiing! Particularly around the town of Haugastol.

By Tim Parish

Need a hand with knowing how to fly a kite? We've seen plenty of struggling fliers from time to time! If so, the information here should be very helpful. It's all based on our flying experiences with single-liners.

This is only about single-liners such as diamonds and deltas. The emphasis is on flat designs with solid spars and an adjustable towing point, but some of the info here will apply to parafoils and sleds as well.

How To Fly A Kite - The Towing Point And Tails

The towing point is where the flying line attaches to the kite's bridle. In most cases, you can slide or otherwise adjust this point towards the nose or the tail of the kite.

What if the kite doesn't want to fly at all?

Perhaps there's simply not enough wind for that kite, which is likely if you can't feel it pulling on the line. Just wait for better conditions, and go out when there's more wind!

Perhaps you can feel some pull in the line, and it moves left or right but just doesn't climb no matter what you do. That is the symptom of a towing point set too far back. Just shift it forward towards the nose of the kite a little, and try again. Keep adjusting by a small amount until the kite willingly climbs into the air. Learning how to fly a kite has a lot to do with understanding the towing point.

What if the kite takes off, but then just wants to loop around and dive into the ground?

Let's assume you're not trying to fly immediately downwind of your house or some other huge obstacle! Looping is usually caused by trying to fly when the wind is too strong. The first thing to try is to shift the towing point forward a little. This reduces the pressure on the kite and might be enough to keep it in the air.

If you have shifted the towing point several times without any success, it's time to add a tail. Or, if there is already a tail, double its length, at least. If the kite still misbehaves, pack up and wait for a less windy day!

What if the kite takes off and climbs, but then doesn't get very high?

In this case it sounds like there is enough wind, but the towing point has been left too far forward. No problem, just shift the towing point back towards the tail a bit at a time until you are happy with the flying.

If shifting the towing point doesn't help, then the wind is just not strong enough to carry the kite plus its flying line to its maximum height. The weight of the line does add up, as you let more and more of it out.

How To Fly A Kite - Gusty Winds And Hand Launching

What if the wind is gusty and the kite doesn't stay up long enough for you to let some line out? Let's assume the towing point is about right. The best approach here is probably to just let a helper carry the kite some distance away, while you let out the line. Then tell them to hold it up and let it fly out of their hand when the next gust comes through.

Eventually, with some practice, you will be able to get good at hand launches. You dangle the kite from your hand and then let line slip through your fingers whenever you feel some tension. Climbing a kite is a process of letting out line when the tension is strong, and holding on when the tension is light.

How To Fly A Kite And Not Get Bored

Some, maybe most, people just enjoy the relaxing aspects of flying a single-line kite. Just watching it fly, perhaps enjoying the subtle artistry of color and movement. However, if you would like to get a little more out of it, why not try the following ideas.

* Launch straight off the ground, on a long line. Pull in line to get the kite in the air, then let it climb up to full height.
* Bring your kite right down into your hand without letting it touch the ground. Pull in quicker from time to time if needed, to keep it airborne.
* Keep records. See how long you can keep it in the air, to the nearest 5 minutes.
* See how fast you can get 150 meters (500 feet) of line out, from a hand launch.

If you are not a frequent flier, I hope these tips on how to fly a kite have been of some help!